Our Silk Road Train Journey, Pt. 6: Returning To Uzbekistan
In my previous post we had been dancing at a traditional Uzbek wedding before crossing over to Tajikistan to have a look at some bad taxidermy in a museum and see an unbelievably ostentatious teahouse, now it was time to return to Uzbekistan and continue our Silk Road rail adventure.
Friday, April 18, 2025
The next two days would be spent in the ancient city of Bukhara, the hometown of our guide, Rustam, meaning we were staying the night in a hotel again and he was going to “eat a lot of plov” (a strongly implied double-entendre) at his home so we happily packed some bags for the night, grabbed our passports, jumped on the bus and were soon at our destination. A little about Bukhara:
Bukhara is the seventh-largest city in Uzbekistan by population, with 280,187 residents as of 1 January 2020. It is the capital of Bukhara Region.
People have inhabited the region around Bukhara for at least five millennia, and the city has existed for half that time. Located on the Silk Road, the city has long served as a center of trade, scholarship, culture, and religion. Bukhara served as the capital of the Khanate of Bukhara, Emirate of Bukhara and later Bukhara People’s Soviet Republic. It was the birthplace of the scholar Imam Bukhari. The city has been known as “Noble Bukhara” (Bukhārā-ye sharīf). Bukhara has about 140 architectural monuments. UNESCO has listed the historic center of Bukhara (which contains numerous mosques and madrasas) as a World Heritage Site.
Once again we were welcomed to the city by dancers performing alongside a traditional band, but there would be a lot to see so we had to get this show on the road, our first stop being the Lyab-i Hauz complex surrounding a 500-year old pool that is one of the few remaining out of the many that were once so common in Bukhara. These pools once served as the main source of water, but were also notorious for spreading disease so almost all of them were filled in during the Soviet era.
As we entered I felt the need to pose with a statue that kind of resembled a man in a donkey rodeo, but was in actuality Nasreddin, a character from ancient Muslim folklore who the locals believe was born and lived in Bukhara. It was absolutely beautiful inside the complex that has barely changed over the past several hundred years, with the city’s oldest madrasa, Kukeldash Madrasa, on one side, Nadir Devonbegi Madrasah on the other, and the Nodir Devonbegi Khanaka, an old lodging house and madrasa, standing at the other two ends of the pool. We had seen our fair share of madrasas on our trip so we only looked briefly at these ones, but it was the courtyard of Nadir Devonbegi Madrasah that really caught our eye, because we hadn’t seen one with a garden and tables with chairs looking over a pool before. As we watched swans swim around in the pool’s bright green waters it became apparent why the Soviets filled most of these in; no matter how beautiful they were, that water is definitely not suitable for human consumption, but fortunately this hauz still remains and we might have to come back later on.
In and around Lyab-i Hauz:
Now it was time to begin exploring the actual city and our very first stop was barely around the corner, The Puppet Museum and Workshop:
Nestled in the heart of Bukhara, The Puppet Museum stands as a testament to the captivating world of Uzbek theatrical puppets. Unlike conventional children’s playthings, these handcrafted marvels take center stage in a museum that embodies the vision and craftsmanship of its founder, Iskandar Khakimov.
The museum’s inception traces back to Khakimov’s original ambition to create a performance showcasing Uzbek traditions. As this vision evolved, the meticulously crafted puppets began to replace live actors, leading Khakimov to immerse himself in the art of puppet-making. Stepping away from his role at the puppet theatre, he birthed The Puppet Museum, an endeavor sparked by a fortuitous incident that underscored the demand for these unique creations.
In the late twentieth century, a puppet show highlighting traditions gained immense popularity among tourists. The turning point occurred when a spectator, enamored with a puppet resembling her, fervently sought to purchase it. Reluctantly parting with the puppet, Khakimov found himself compelled to create a replacement, thus kindling the birth of the museum.
This stop came as a bit of a surprise to us, because so far in Central Asia and particularly the other areas of Uzbekistan we had visited we hadn’t encountered anything even remotely resembling a puppet, yet here we were, although as the above link says, puppetry is a relatively recent tradition. We were shown around the museum first to look at some of the puppets and their components followed by a short, but extraordinary display of one performing a traditional dance to music before being taken into the workshop to see how the puppets are initially designed and painstakingly created.
A look around the museum and workshop, as well as a video of one of the puppets in action:
It was still relatively early so we spent the rest of the morning roaming around this ancient city, winding our way down narrow roads and alleys between millennia-0ld buildings, through markets and by old mosques, passing Ulugh Beg Madrasa and archaeological sites, while encountering street magicians and musicians along the way before lunch. When we had finished eating we checked into our hotel, dumped the luggage while questioning how we would use a TV remote control that had all of the buttons either taped over or removed, and then we were back out again to take in more of the city.
Our morning spent walking around Bukhara:
We settled into our hotel for an hour and then we were back on the street during a short spot of rain, first stopping off at the Kalyan Minaret, also known as the Great Minaret of the Kalon:
The Kalyan Minaret is a minaret of the Po-i-Kalyan mosque complex in Bukhara, Uzbekistan and one of the most prominent landmarks in the city.
The minaret, designed by Bako, was built on an earlier existing structure called Kalyan by the Qarakhanid ruler Mohammad Arslan Khan in 1127 to summon Muslims to prayer five times a day. An earlier tower was collapsed before starting this structure which was called Kalyan, meaning welfare, indicating a Buddhist or zoroasterian past. It is made in the form of a circular-pillar baked brick tower, narrowing upwards. It is 45.6 metres (150 feet) high (48 metres including the point), of 9 metres (30 feet) diameter at the bottom and 6 metres (20 feet) overhead.
There is a brick spiral staircase that twists up inside around the pillar to the rotunda. The tower base has narrow ornamental strings belted across it made of bricks which are placed in both straight or diagonal fashion. The frieze is covered with a blue glaze with inscriptions.
Sure, the minaret’s initial intended use was well-meaning, but it was what came a little later that was more interesting to me:
About a hundred years after its construction, the tower so impressed Genghis Khan that he ordered it to be spared when all around was destroyed by his men. It is also known as the Tower of Death, because until as recently as the early twentieth century criminals were executed by being thrown from the top.
Obviously we wouldn’t be able to climb the staircase inside, but we were given a very detailed history of both the complex and particularly the minaret itself by Rustam and there was one bizarre fact that stood out; not only was the 900-year old Kalyan Minaret used both as a call to prayer as well as a place to hurl criminals to their deaths, but it was constructed from mud bricks and a special mortar that was mixed with bulls’ blood, camel milk, and eggs that took two years to set which most likely contributed to its durability. Yup, this ancient structure was essentially held together with camel custard.
Braving the drizzle to see the minaret and the rest of the Po-i-Kalyan mosque complex:
We did a bit more exploring closer to our hotel with one final stop before dinner, a traditional blacksmith workshop and museum. Run by Ikramov Sayfullo, this workshop dates back five generations, crafting everything from swords and daggers to embossed hunting and fishing knives and even scissors. First we shown a portion of the process of forging a knife before having a look around the museum and shop where it became clear just how sharp these knives were when an employee took out one of the hunting knives, held a piece of paper in the air, and sliced it in half by merely gliding the knife down it slowly, just like Jack Starrett in the film First Blood. Anna and myself were quite impressed so we picked up some gifts for a few people who we knew would appreciate them, complete with a certificate stating they were ornamental to make it easier to get them through customs, something that turned out not to be too much of an issue upon my return to Singapore.
Everyone went back to the hotel to rest, but we decided to stop for a drink before dinner in order to plot our evening and once we were done eating we were left to our own bidding. Our other traveling companions stayed back at the hotel, more than likely hitting the hay after a day full of walking, but we wanted to see what the nightlife was like in a small, ancient Uzbek city so we did a bit more exploring, remembering that there had been a few bars near Lyab-i Hauz earlier in the day. Even though it was Good Friday, we didn’t think we would have too much trouble finding a place, having already been able to have a cheeky one earlier. We passed the Po-i-Kalyan complex again on the way and this time it was lit up at night like the Registan when we were in the Samarkand region earlier in the week, but without the animation. When we arrived at Lyab-i Hauz we found several places to pull up a seat around the pool and wet the whistle before slowly making our way back to the hotel, stopping into another bar for more drinks after we were recognised and beckoned over by the guides of some of the other groups as well as a member of the medical staff from the train who were hanging out there.
Shopping for knives, an afternoon drink, and areas around Bukhara at night:
Saturday, April 19, 2025
It would be another packed schedule on this cool, wet day, beginning on this occasion by jumping back on the bus and driving to Bolo Haouz Mosque. Yes, we had visited several mosques on this trip, but this once had a completely unique facade with its 20 wooden columns, although once Anna had covered up and we entered it was a little underwhelming compared to some of the others we had been to. But hey, it had a great view of Bukhara Tower.
We only spent about 15 minutes at the mosque before moving on to the next stop, the nearby 1,100-year old Samanid Mausoleum:
The Samanid Mausoleum is a mausoleum located in the northwestern part of Bukhara, Uzbekistan, just outside its historic center. It was built in the 10th century CE as the resting place of the powerful and influential Islamic Samanid dynasty that ruled the Samanid Empire from approximately 900 to 1000. It contained three burials, one of whom is known to have been that of Nasr II.
The mausoleum is considered one of the iconic examples of early Islamic architecture and is known as the oldest funerary building of Central Asian architecture. It is the only surviving monument from the Samanid era, but American art historian Arthur Upham Pope called it “one of the finest in Persia”.
Now that sounds like a building worth visiting. It was impossible to believe that this perfectly symmetrical structure was built when people were still only recording the year with three digits, but even more so once inside. Besides the tombs we saw incredibly intricate brickwork forming arches and domes, as well as what are known as ‘squinches’, defined by dictionary.com as:
noun
Architecture.
- a small arch, corbeling, or the like, built across the interior angle between two walls, as in a square tower for supporting the side of a superimposed octagonal spire.
Many people back then couldn’t comprehend where the sun went at night, yet figured out how to form a domed roof on a square building. Fast forward over a thousand years and it’s completely vice-versa for me.
When we had finished with the mausoleum we had a look around the gardens, cut through a fairground, and eventually arrived at our restaurant for another real plov lunch.
Bolo Haouz Mosque, Samanid Mausoleum, and then a bit to eat:
Now that we were powered up again, a large portion of our afternoon would be spent exploring the Bahoutdin Architectural Complex:
The Bahouddin Naqshband Memorial Complex is located approximately 10 kilometers northeast of Bukhara and has been developed over many centuries. During the time of the Soviets, it was forbidden to visit the grave here. The complex was initially established after the death of Bahouddin Naqshband and has been a place of pilgrimage for many generations. Bahouddin Naqshband’s full name was Bahouddin Muhammad ibn Burhoniddin Muhammad al-Bukhori, and he lived from 1318 to 1389. He was also known by titles such as “Shohi Naqshband” and “Xojayi Buzruk.” Bahouddin Naqshband is recognized as the seventh Sufi saint.
The Bahouddin Naqshband Memorial Complex begins with a small domed gatehouse. In 2003, the calligrapher Habibulloh Solih inscribed the 28th verse of the Surah Ar-Ra’d (The Thunder) on the wall near the “Bobi Islom” gate, using an Arabic script known as “Nasta’liq”. In the muqarnas section of the gate, the names of the master builders and the year of construction are inscribed. A rubai (quatrain) is written in “Nasta’liq” script on the entrance door of the mausoleum. The tombs within the complex have been arranged according to the command of Abdulaziz Khan and are currently well-preserved. The largest building in the complex, the khanqah (Sufi lodge), was constructed between 1544 and 1545. Inside the cells of the khanqah, you can find poetry inscribed in “Nasta’liq” script. The memorial complex also includes a minaret featuring an inscription in “Nasta’liq” script, indicating that it was built in 1885.
Once more Anna needed to cover her head and then we spent the next hour walking around the complex, taking in all of the regular architecture we had now come to expect in this part of the world, plus some wells, pools, and rotundas. There was a moment of extreme irony when the notorious Ms. P (you may remember her from earlier posts about this trip if you’ve read them), despite having constantly stood in everyone’s way to take photos and then remain steadfast for several minutes while she checked them all and then took more again over the duration of this trip, frustratedly asked me if there was a way to remove people from the background of her pictures. She complained that everyone kept getting in the way, despite the sheer number of times she had photobombed me, but the only way to get rid of her was to show her how to erase the backgrounds so Anna and I could continue on our way alone.
In and around the Bahouddin Naqshband Memorial Complex, beginning at the entrance and working our way through from the main courtyard:
Even though it appeared as if a storm was rapidly approaching, we had to get back in the bus and soldier on, because we still had two more sites to visit that afternoon and the next was the Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa Palace:
Sitorai Mokhi-Khosa, also known as the “Palace Like the Stars and the Moon,” is a country residence of the Emir of Bukhara, built in the late 19th to early 20th century. Currently, it houses a museum of decorative and applied arts.
The Sitorai Mohi Khosa Palace is divided into the old and the new. The initial constructions of the palace (which have not survived to this day) date back to the 18th century, and then, during the reign of Emir Said Abd al-Ahad Khan in the second half of the 19th century, further buildings were added. The new complex was built in a European style but is divided into a male and a female section, with an Eastern interior design.
By this point it seemed like we had seen our fair share of mosques, madrasas, and minarets since we had arrived in Bukhara so a palace was a welcome change. Immediately upon entry to the grounds through the colourful front gates we were greeted by peacocks and it seemed like we were encountering more at every turn, some hanging out, just sitting on a wall, others with a full mating display going on. In the first courtyard we passed a bookstore which was apparently originally the Emir’s wine cellar and servants’ quarters before we entered the White Hall, including a banquet hall, chess room, and tea house. Next was the guesthouse for foreign visitors, which now contains a collection of valuable traditional robes, but it was the third and final building we were most interested in — The Harem. It consisted of a two-storey building with a pool and a viewing platform across from it. According to this (and several other sources I read) Emir Alim Khan watched his naked concubines in the pool and would throw a ripe apple to the one he was most interested in, who would then be washed in donkey’s milk and delivered to his bed chambers. Surely some sandalwood or jasmine would’ve done the trick, but apparently it was the aroma of donkey milk that got his heart pumping. Oh well, to each their own.
Inside and around Sitorai Mohi Khosa Palace with the harem, plus a peacock who looks like he might’ve got into the Emir’s milk storage:
The clouds were beginning to part which meant we were onto our final stop of the day and the oldest by far, the Ark of Bukhara:
The Ark of Bukhara is a massive fortress located in the city of Bukhara, Uzbekistan, that was initially built and occupied around the 5th century AD. In addition to being a military structure, the Ark encompassed what was essentially a town that, during much of the fortress’s history, was inhabited by the various royal courts that held sway over the region surrounding Bukhara. The Ark was used as a fortress until it fell to Russia in 1920.
The Ark is a large earthen fortification located in the northwestern part of contemporary Bukhara. In layout, it resembles a modified rectangle, a little elongated from the west to the east. The perimeter of the external walls is 789.6 m (2,591 ft), the area enclosed being 3.96 ha (9.8 acres). The height of the walls varies from 16 to 20 m (52 to 66 ft).
We were greeted by a camel upon arrival, but once inside it wasn’t so much like visiting a fortress, because most of the remaining buildings now serve as museums, but there were the ruins of the mosque inside that had a perspex viewing panel showing an outline of how it would’ve originally appeared, although with the buildings we had already seen, I had a pretty accurate image in my head. What being up in those walls did provide, however, were incredible views over the city of Bukhara, particularly areal views of the sites we had seen over the past two days, including the Po-i-Kalyan mosque complex, Bolo Haouz Mosque, and most importantly Bukhara Tower.
The Ark, some areas of the museums, ruins inside, and the views over the city:
That was our sightseeing done for the day, bringing an end to our time in Bukhara. Our first day in town had been a lot of fun and was interesting, but today had been a little bland, more of an extension of most of the mosques and madrasas we had already seen, but that would soon change as we got back on the train and ate dinner as we rode into the sunset.
Stay tuned for the final instalment in the series about our Silk Road journey when we spend a day in the ancient city of Khiva where people just constantly wanted to be in photos with me, followed by another back in a modern city, this time a fun last day out in the Uzbek capital, Tashkent.
Riding off into the distance
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